Båtresan från Lombok till Flores – ett äventyr vi sent ska glömma

Det har tagit sin lilla tid att klämma ur sig detta inlägg. Jag tror både jag och Tove behövde marinera upplevelserna så att de får den beskrivning de förtjänar, en beskrivning som till viss del skiljer sig från den spontana reaktionen där och då.

Vi tar det från början. Jag har hört mycket bra saker om den här typen av resor. Oavsett om de varat ett dygn eller flera så säger alla som tuffat i den indonesiska skärgården att det är fantastiskt vackert och bland det bästa de har gjort. Det var med dessa argument jag övertalade Tove att haka på när hon var här på semester. Det är mycket att begära. Fyra dygn på båt plus en extra flygresa tillbaka till Bali när båtåkandet var över. Tur hon älskar hav och båtar lika mycket som jag. Självklart var hon på! (Löv u for that.)

Eftersom trippen tog sin början på Lombok så la vi några dagar på denna ö innan avresan. Nu ska inte detta inlägg handla om Lombok men min slutsats av fyra dagar där är att Lombok inte kommer till dig. Du måste komma till Lombok. Det är en ö som i själen skiljer sig från Bali, det mest uppenbara är att istället för majoritet hinduer som på Bali är majoriteten här muslimer. De är inte heller lika vana vid turister – än. För även om den här ön börjat bli ett vanligt resmål så ligger de ljusår från det turisttäta Bali vad gäller service, logistik och standard. Det är helt enkelt ett jävla skrikande på en om precis allt. Även inne på restaurangerna. Varenda måltid spenderades med att säga No, thank you till allt från tavlor och neonfiskar i plast till transportförslag och saronger. SÅ. IN. I. HELVETE. IRRITERANDE. Men okej, nog om Lombok. Det får bli ett eget inlägg haha!

Onsdag – dag 1

Vi blev i alla fall upphämtade i en överfull minibuss på onsdag morgon. Jag och Tove fick sitta i framsätet där det endast finns 1,5 säte. Resultat synes nedan. Så satt vi i 3h. Egonomin havererade direkt. (Men värre skulle det bli.)

Efter att ha stannat till i en by för att få oidentifierbar frulle så åkte vi från västra till östra Lombok där de fyra båtarna som skulle ta oss 140 pers på vårt livs äventyr väntade. Det började bra, vi tyckte vi fick den finaste båten (viktigt haha) och vid första anblick såg också vår kabin ganska söt och bekväm ut. För ja, vi did it the adult way och la till lite pengar för att få vårt egna space. Det fanns tre kabiner på båten, resterande 25 pers låg på däck. Man får ju ge dem credd för val av sängkläder!

Äntligen påväg! Vi fick testa på första måltiden, veggo-grytor med ris. Maten intogs alltid ståendes eftersom det bara fanns plats för typ 10 pers att sitta samtidigt. Eftersom det var samma käk varje måltid i fyra dagar, och den var allt annat än en kulinarisk upplevelse, behöver vi inte återkomma till detta igen…

Första stoppet var Kenawa Island. Här fick man knata upp till toppen av en ensam kulle och beundra solnedgången om man ville. Vi sket i det eftersom det var molnigt och fick därför båten för oss själva. Där kunde vi ändå njuta av vacker vy, solnedgång och kunde filma en snutt av hur vi bodde utan att det var en massa folk ivägen. Check it out below:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qt2pXBNVC9MzTATaBkBffzFJFmVzjijp/view?usp=sharing

Efter att ha suttit hela kvällen ute på däck med våra nyfunna bekantskaper från världens alla hörn, beundrat en heeeelt episk vintergata som inte liknar något jag tidigare sett och sedan lyckats gå på toaletten (det är värt att nämnas) så skulle vi alltså sova. Då inser vi något de kaaaan ha glömt att nämna i bokningsläget. Vi låg på lösa plankor. Plank som under resans gång knakade som ett spökhus i orkanvindar och kanade runt eftrersom vi förflyttade oss även nattetid. Spik är tydligen överskattat. Att sova likaså. Vi fick väl ihop 3h var den natten. Och ryggont på köpet.

Torsdag – dag 2

07.00 serveras frukosten. Varje dag. Mr Wadi som är guiden på båten skriker “Breakfast, breakfast!”. Vi klättrar ner till undervåningen och klämmer en sandwich med ägg. As if we had a choice.

Innan klockan slagit 8 har vi redan åkt med lillebåten in till Moyo Island, knatat till ett vattenfall och tagit ett uppfriskande dopp. Eftersom det inte finns speciellt mycket sötvatten på båten så är det här det första, och sista, “duschandet” vi gör. Vattenfallet var väl… ja.. snäppet överskattat. Högra bilden visar deras bild. Vänstra min.

Vi snorklade, snicksnackade med lite folk och simmade sedan tillbaka till båten för vad vi tänkte skulle bli en lång men fin dag på havet.

Kommande 24h är ett töcken. Jag vet ju av erfarenhet att jag har lätt för att bli sjösjuk på större båtar som denna. Därför hetsade jag i mig mat vid varje tillfälle som gavs, att vara hungrig och sedan gunga runt är ingen bra kombo. Men här krävdes det mer än käk. Efter vi lämnade Moyo Island vid 10-tiden började en kamp mot mer än sjösjuka. Det kändes som en mental jävla Kebnekajse-klättring med händerna bakbundna. Den började gunga lite. Sedan blev det en full-on berg och dalbana som aldrig tog slut. Det kom vågor från två håll. Ingen kunde längre stå upp, vi kröp fram på däck. Flera spydde. Alla var tysta. Jag och Tove kom snabbt fram till att genom att ligga på mage så gav vi maten minst möjlighet att åka runt på insidan. Sagt och gjort. Vi låg ner på däck hela dagen, ända tills solen gick ner. Vid det laget hade majoriteten av de andra redan bäddat ner sig på sina madrasser på däck men eftersom vi hade vår instängda kabin vågade vi inte lägga oss där förrän det var absolut nödvändigt. För vi skulle segla hela natten. Och de förbannade vågorna bara fortsatte.

Här låg vi. Timme ut, timme in.

MEN. Här kommer en av resans höjdpunkter – delfiner! Precis när solen dök ner bakom horisonten såg vi ett helg gäng med glada delfiner som lekte bredvid båten. De där fem minuterna gjorde att vi, och de få andra som var kvar ute, glömde stormbyarna och hasade/rullade runt i fören för att fånga dem på bild. Det gick sådär men upplevelsen var oförglömlig.

Så kom då mörkret och vi var tvungna att stänga in oss i det som vi nu refererade till som sillburken. Det går inte att beskriva i ord hur det är att stundtals ligga på varandra för att vågorna var så höga. Vi såg ju dessutom inte ut så med referenspunkt noll spenderade vi en natt med att parera vågorna bäst vi kunde. Ibland gick det bättre, ibland sämre. Mängden blåmärken min kropp ådrog sig denna natt slår alla rekord. Plankjävlarna hjälpte inte till. Vi sov noll, nada.

Fredag – dag 3

När solen äntligen gick upp stapplade vi ut på däck och la oss på mage. Igen.

Svullna ögon, can u tell I’m tired?

Enligt schemat skulle vi gjort ett morgonstopp på Laban Island för att “look at the marvellous views” men det ströks utan förklaring. Vi anar att det berodde på att Mr Wade hade 30 fullkomligt trasiga gäster framför sig när han något försiktigare denna gång ropade “Breakfast, breakfast!” vid 07. Han ursäkta sig å havets vägnar: “I’m sorry, usually not this windy. Waves come from two directions all night, so sorry for u not sleep”.

Vi tuffade några timmar senare in i något lugnare vatten där vi från båten skulle hoppa i ock kolla Mantor. Kruxet var bara att det var strömt så in i helvete och efter den där natten var varken jag eller Tove i fas för att simma för våra liv för att EVENTUELLT se en Manta på 20m djup. Vi hängde kvar på däck, såg en Manta ändå och fick vårt beslut bekräftat som det rätta när våra stackars medtrafikanter klättrade tillbaka på båten med svordomar som mest återkommande ord. Havet är dock en otroligt vacker plats, kolla bara på detta!

Efter lunch hade vi alla återfått färgen i ansiktet lagom tills vi kom fram till Komodo Island. Äntligen fast mark under fötterna. Eller? Jag insåg att jag plötsligt hade bättre sjöben än landben och promenaden i nationalparken blev därför svajjig. Jag hade noll balans längre och längtade plötsligt till den gungande båten. Men först såg vi några ordentliga varaner.

Väl tillbaka i hamnen insåg vi att tidvattnet hade börjat dra sig utåt. Det innebar att vi plötsligt hade 1,5m ner till fören på vår båt. Som tur var fanns ett staket på grannbåten som var snäppet högre upp. Det hoppade vi ner till och klättrade sedan över ett annat staket för att kunna hoppa ner på vår för. Jag säger så här, min höjdrädsla och kända smidighet som ett kassaskåp fick sig en match. Men det var inte bara jag som drog efter andan och gav ifrån sig ett nervöst tjut, även grabbarna som vanligtvis såg ut att kunna svinga sig i lianer tvekade.

Några timmar båtåkande senare la vi till i en vacker vik precis vid Padar Island. Äntligen en natt utan förflyttning. Äntligen möjlighet att socialisera lite, för den delen blev väldigt lidande under föregående dygn. Vi spelade Bluff med blyga killgänget från Sverige, snackade skit om den fruktansvärt osociala gruppen holländare som alltid ockuperade taket och vägrade svara på tilltal, vi djupdök i förlossningar (Toves yrke lockar tydligen till detta haha) och jämförde svordomar och språk med goingar från England, USA, Spanien, Österrike och Slovenien. Det var en väldigt väldigt mysig eftermiddag och kväll. När vi la oss på plankorna den kvällen så somnade vi tvärt. Äntligen 5-6h sömn.

Fredag – dag 4

Så var det plötsligt sista dagen. Klockan 05 ringde mobilerna, nu skulle det hajkas upp på Padar Island och se soluppgången. Den här hajken hade jag blivit varnad för innan om man har dåliga knän ska man undvika den. Jag tog det säkra före det osäkra och stannade på båten. Så även Tove och ett gäng andra. Vi satt på däck och såg solen gå upp, det var magiskt.

När de andra kom tillbaka jämförde vi bilder och som en av tjejerna sa med ett leende; dina bilder är ju fan bättre så varför i hela friden klättrade jag upp på det där berget utan frukost i magen 😉 Samsung baby, Samsung, svarade jag.

De sista två stoppen var Pink Beach och ännu en nationalpark för varaner. Det sista sket vi också i, tyckte vi ahde fått nog av varaner, men stranden simmade vi glatt in till. Här färgar koraller sanden rosa vilket har gett den sitt namn. MEN. Inte ser den speciellt rosa ut va? Den var jättevacker och man kunde ana det rosa i sanden men ja, den var kanske inte så rosa. Tydligen gör den sig bättre vid solnedgång eller soluppgång. Fina timmar där oavsett.

Vi tog tillfället i akt och simmade till och från beachen. Det var strömt. Och jobbigt.

Så kom vi då äntligen fram till Flores och staden Labuan Bajo. Nu skulle vi bara packa ihop grejerna, lägga till och kliva av. Låter ju enkelt. NOT. Tålamodsprövning BIGTIME.

Det låg nämligen ett stort fraktfartyg i vägen. I Sverige hade man väl väntat tills någon båt flyttade på sig men i Indonesien lägger man sig längst med denna enorma skapelse till båt och förväntar att gästerna glatt klättrar i land VIA tankfartyget. MED 30kg packning på sig.

Den här kreationen var en del av tankfartyget. Du kan ju hajja sizen på fartyget som helhet då.

Alltså jag pallar inte ens försöka beskriva varenda detalj här. Det är helt unreal hur man kan tycka att det här är en bra lösning. Skitigt. Högt. Halt. Livsfarligt.

Först klättrade vi upp på vår reling, tog ett kliv över till tankerns staket och klättrade över det. Med all packning. Gick över båten medan containers lastades på. OK, we made it. Sedan kom den riktiga chocken. Det fanns ju inte direkt en landgång ner från tankern till betongen 4m ner. Det fanns dock ytterligare ett rostigt staket och en repstege täckt av olja som hängde längst med skrovet. Sista steget på stegen var så högt upp att jag med nöd och näppe fick ner en plast-Birkenbeklädd tå på den utåtlutande “gummifändern” som var monterad på sidan av betongen. Sedan tog någon tag i ens arm och drog en åt motsatt håll så man till slut kunde få tyngden åt rätt håll och baklänges ta ett steg in på betongen. Vi hade olja på hela händerna och kläderna eftersom vi behövde klämma oss förbi saker och Tove hade som pricken över i:et fått en lagom stor klick fett i håret och örat då det droppat ner från taket.

Eftersom det var omöjligt att klättra med packningen fick vi vackert ge ifrån oss allt när vi stod och väntade på att få klättra ner.

Döm av min förvåning när jag inser att min lilla ryggsäck, där pass, pengar, mobil, dator etc, låg var puts väck när jag väl kom ner. Alla andras var där men inte min. Jag frågade mannen som tog emot väskorna var den var. Han pekade på en annan. Jag sa nej. Han pekade på samma igen. Jag sa FUCK NO. Paniken liksom. Efter dessa dagar, som kulminerade i skitighet och höjdrädsleskakiga benen, så orkade jag inte längre hålla ihop det. Jag skrek, rakt i ansiktet på mannen: WHERE THE FUCK DID YOU PUT MY BAG?! I GAVE IT TO YOU AND NOW ITS NOT HERE SO WHERE THE HELL IS IT?!

Han pekade på den andra förbannade väskan IGEN. Jag skrek NOOOOOOOOOOOO. Efter några minuters panikletande, där tårarna var så nära att jag knappt kunde formulera mig så kommer en av de tjejer vi lärt känna fram, Annabelle. Hon visste hur min väska såg ut och säger att hon såg en av grabbarna ta den och stoppa in den i en minivan som stod en bit bort. Jag blir ursinnig och stövlar fram till gänget grabbar som står där och skiter fullkomligt i vem som gjort vad. Jag bara skriker DO YOU HAVE MY BAG IN THERE, WHY THE FUCK WOULD YOU PUT IT IN THERE?! GIVE ME MY BAG! Amen ni hör ju. Där står jag, 187 lång och bred som två indonesier, med 20 kg packning på ryggen och vevar med mina långa armar. De måste trott jag var galen. Mannen som tog min väska låtsades verka förvånad när han rev fram min ryggsäck från bilens inre. HELVETE vad arg jag var. Och chockad. Om inte min räddande ängel Annabelle (som tillsammans med sin kille Pablo var fantastiska människor och som vi fick inbjudan att besöka om vi kommer till Seville) inte hade sett när den togs hade allt varit borta for good. Kaoset det hade inneburit orkar jag inte ens tänka på. Äntligen hade jag lite stolpe in. Tack Annabelle.

Med hjärtat i halsgropen tog vi en taxi tillsammans med ovan nämnda par till vårt BnB eftersom det visade sig att vi bokat samma. På kvällen gick vi ut och käkade trerätters och sedan spenderade vi kvällen på rummet där vi turades om att gå på toaletten. Efter fyra dagar av ris-diet och något svajjiga toabesök så var systemet i uppror. För mycket info? Well, u know me. Sharing is caring, eller nått.

Så skulle jag göra det igen?

Nej. Det var en upplevelse jag sent ska glömma, som jag inte önskar vara ogjord, men som jag aldrig behöver göra igen. Det vackra förtogs av de praktiska utmaningarna och jag tror att om man vill uppleva Indonesisk skärgård så gör man bättre i att flyga timmen från Bali till Labujan Bajo och göra dagstripper ut till öarna. Det är ändå där i närheten som det mesta ligger. Det är kanske det verkligt vuxna sättet att uppleva saker på. Och vuxna är vi. Något chockat konstaterade vi att vi var äldst på båten. Men vår ansiktsålder pendlade mellan 24-25 enligt de andra så vi lever på det ett tag.

Nu ska jag jobba vidare, kanske med ett glas Aussie-vin i handen. Måste passa på liksom. Om du orkade läsa ända ner hit så är jag mycket tacksam. Du får en virtuell puss som tack <3

Världens bästa Tovski <3

1 736 reaktion på “Båtresan från Lombok till Flores – ett äventyr vi sent ska glömma”

  1. Klart jag orkar lösa! Fantastiskt skrivet som vanligt!!
    Jösses vilken båtresa……
    Ha det fint i Sydney!
    Kram M-A

  2. Oj vilket äventyr! Ni är fantastiska som gav er iväg ändå. Hoppas du har de bra i Sydney nu, tänker på dig vännen! Puss P2

  3. Herregud vilken upplevelse! Ja denna delen av resan är jag inte alls avundsjuk på, men minnen får man ju alltid med sig och tur att du hade världens bästa sällskap! Som ni kommer skratta åt detta framöver! 🙂

    1. Haha nej jag kan tänka mig att du i efterhand slutat vara avis 😉 Det är iaf ett minne för livet, så många skratt under resans gång trots alla praktiska utmaningar 😀

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